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Knowledge makes you Sharp on the Inside. 

​​Applying it makes you Sharp on the Outside!
 
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Discover the ultimate guide to haircare, beard care, scalp treatments, and shaving. We are your trusted source for valuable insights and techniques to level up your barbering skills and solve common problems.  

Tips for Determining and Caring for Different Hair Types

11/28/2023

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Boy thinking
​It’s essential to know your hair type. You can choose products and cuts designed for your specific needs to maintain optimal health, condition, and style.  As a barber, determining hair type will determine what tools and products I use to achieve the desired cut or style.  While you can ask your barber or stylist to help identify your type, there are some easy ways to figure it out.  Using some common categories, we can describe types by texture, porosity, curl pattern, density, etc.
TEXTURE
Combing Coarse Hair
Texture is an important identifier.  The texture is based on the diameter of the hair.  If you have coarse hair, you’ll know it!  Coarse hair is stiff to manage with the largest diameter. With strong cowlicks and dryness that can irritate skin, this hair type will require some products.  Fine-medium hair is typically the normal/average hair type.  Fine-extra fine hair is the most manageable of all types, with the thinnest diameter.
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Regardless of the texture, make sure to choose gentle cleansers that are pH-balanced and paraben-free, followed by an all-natural moisturizer.  I recommend Warrior Beard Oil from Razors Image Products as a moisturizer for coarse beards.
POROSITY
Porosity is the measure of how well your hair absorbs moisture.  High porosity means that your hair absorbs a lot, but it doesn’t retain it.  Medium porosity is a steady rate of absorption and retention.  Low porosity is when your hair has trouble absorbing moisture, but once it’s there, it stays well.
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Low porosity typically looks healthier and shinier and is not as prone to split ends. High porosity hair would greatly benefit from creamy butters and rich oils to help retain and lock in moisture.
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CURL PATTERN
The Andre Walker Hair Typing System shown in the diagram is an excellent visual of curl patterns.  Straight to Extra curly, and everything in between…the hair types are described in more detail on this neat blog post, “Curl Pattern,” at Curlsandpotions.com.
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Curly hair tends to lack moisture more often than straight hair.  It’s a great idea to use daily leave-in moisturizers. Argan oil will bring out the shine in your curls!  
Andre Walker Curl Pattern Chart
DENSITY
man combing hair
Hair density measures the strands per square inch…so how thick is your hair?  We say it is either low, medium, or high density.  To measure your density at home, generally, a medium-average is a ponytail that is 2-3 inches in diameter.  Less would be considered low, and more would be regarded as high.

Ethnicity can affect the average person’s density. (Measured at the crown) The typical density of Caucasian hair is 1,458 hairs per square inch—Hispanic averages 1,148 and African at 961.  Age is a factor; as we age, we lose density in our hair. Healthline has a great article on hair density for further reading, “What Is Hair Density and Why It Matters.”
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With low-density hair, product weight, and residue would be a concern. With high-density hair, you would want something with good hold.

A lot goes into typing your hair correctly.  By identifying your hair type, you can be sure to use products that will work for you and your specific needs to help you reach your styling goals!  You will be able to create a realistic, easy to manage grooming  routine for your everyday needs! 
​Knowledge makes you sharp on the inside. Applying it makes you sharp on the outside!
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Create-the-Look: Top 5 Hairstyles For Men

9/21/2023

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faces of men with different hairstyles
​The hairstyle is the finishing touch of a great haircut. Make sure you know how to maintain and replicate your favorite style!  Here are some common hairstyles and hair types, along with tips on caring for them.
TEXTURED TOP
guy with textured hair
​Textured styles are fun because you can do a lot with them!  Texture is added during the cutting process so talk with your barber about the look you are after.  I recommend using styling power, Slick Gorilla is one, to get your hair to stand up. Matte pomades are a good choice for styling this look as well.  Piece it apart, style it how you want.  Textured tops are unique and creative to the individual. Have fun expressing your personality!

NATURALLY CURLY HAIR
Boy with curly hair
​Commit to a routine with the proper shampoo, conditioner, leave-in moisturizer, and oil to get maximum definition in your curls.

​Shampooing is super important for those with naturally curly hair.  With the hair being coily and kinky, make sure to get all the product washed out for consistency in your curls. Clean the hair all the way, even if it takes 3 washes!  After washing and conditioning use a good, natural leave-in moisturizer.  Top it with argon or coconut oil for a healthy look with some shine. 

​Combing the hair is important for consistency too. While washing, comb all the way through. Begin at the end and go to the root.    

COMBOVER
guy with combover hairstyle

​For any combover, it’s best to begin with the natural part. Everyone has a natural way that your hair parts, so going with that movement will help your style stay.  Choose a pomade based on the finish you desire.  Suavecito, for example, offers a matte or shiny finish. These types of pomades are water soluble and will be easy to wash out.

​Water and heat are helpful to set the style and follow with a product to make it stay.  Blow-dry wet hair in the direction of your desired style. Once dry, apply pomade to your fingertips and spread evenly throughout your hair. Remember- less is more so start with a small amount and add more product if needed.  With pomades, a little goes a long way.  

WAVES
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Pomades and durags are important for a perfect wave style.  The more brushing you do the deeper your waves will be, naturally.  Some people try to cheat with a relaxer, which will get you the wave pattern you desire, however, that is all the wave you will achieve.  It’s better to do it naturally.
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Start with a good wash, conditioner, and leave-in conditioner.  We  recommend natural products. Add a wave pomade such as Sweet Jamila, which contains healthy nutrients. Get to brushin’ and wear your wave cap!

SLICK BACK 
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​Slick-back styles are different for people according to where the natural part is and how the hair is naturally. Some people desire a loose, natural look while some like a more flat, slick back look. The look will also depend on your hair type, and the product you use (gels, pomades, greases). I recommend a water-soluble pomade because it will be easy to wash out.
 
After using a good shampoo and conditioner, begin styling with water and heat.  Then add product to get the look.  Remember portion control: less is more.  Make sure to apply the product to each strand of hair before setting it back.  A wide-tooth comb can create a textured feel on the top to add to your style.

​Reach out to your barber if you need any help with a style or technique.  Your barber is  your best resource!  Work with them to discover the products that work best with your hair and styling goals. Don't be afraid to try new styles. Knowledge makes you sharp on the inside. Applying it makes you sharp on the outside!
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    Aaron & Kristi Brown, Authors

    Aaron Brown is a Master Barber, Cosmetologist, Educator, and Entrepreneur.  As a shop owner and product developer, he has a passion for promoting healthy hair and scalp.  He loves to connect with others and share knowledge on industry trends and products to solve common problems with the hair, scalp, and skin to help clients look and feel their best.

    Kristi Brown is a seasoned Entrepreneur who holds down the fort in an administrative role for the business.  When she's not working, you'll most likely find her spending quality time with her kids, dogs, or tending to her flower gardens. Kristi and Aaron have been married 13 years.

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